Thursday, August 1, 2019

London


Sunday, July 7, 2019

Our Aer Lingus flight from Dublin to London is uneventful and on time (and not all flights are which is why I like to point it out when things go well). We arrive at around 6:30pm, collect our bags and head for the taxi queue. The preferred route from Heathrow to London is the Heathrow Express, a high-speed train that goes directly from the airport to Paddington Station in London in 21 minutes rather than the typical 1-hour ride by taxi. It’s awesome, but it requires a bit of a walk, then you take the tube at Paddington to your ultimate destination in London and that requires more walking, long escalators, etc. With all of our luggage, it’s just not practical to take the train, so we resign ourselves to a taxi. Quick word about that – taxis in London are fantastic. They are old-style, large vehicles where all of your luggage can fit in the seating area with you and the seats are roomy and comfortable. If taxis everywhere were this style, Uber and Lyft would have to revamp their business model.

We are dropped off at our AirBnB, which will be our home for the next week. It is on a quiet street and is a 5-story building. Naturally, our unit is on the top floor, but, thankfully, there is an elevator. Unfortunately, the elevator only goes to the fourth floor requiring us to haul our bags up the 5th and final flight of stairs. Compared to some of our previous rentals, this is wonderful.


What is not wonderful is the unit itself. Perhaps the smallest one-bedroom in all of London and it is not in very good condition. We struggle to find room for all of our bags and the two of us, but eventually we work out an arrangement that allows for both of us to move around and get done what needs to get done.

And one final point about the AirBnB, it is in the Mayfair district which is central to everything – Hyde Park, Green Park, St. James’s Park, Buckingham Palace, Westminster, the Thames, theatre district, etc. It turns out to be a great home for us for the week.

After dropping off our bags and a quick freshening up, I call my son, Travis. He is in London for three weeks with his wife, Stephanie, and three children – Jayden (13), Addison (11) and Riley (7). Travis runs the retail business for Microsoft and is in town for the grand opening of a massive new store at Oxford Circle, one of the pre-eminent shopping locations in all of London. Liz and I have timed our visit to London to coincide with their time here. We will tour the area with Stephanie and the grandkids while Travis works this week and then, in two weeks, we will catch up with them in Northern Spain while they vacation.

We make our way over to their apartment near St. James’s Park to say hi, give the grandkids a hug, briefly catch up, before they have to settle the kids. Liz and I return to the Mayfair district and eat a late dinner at the bar at Claridge’s, a swanky hotel that we were under-dressed for, but, hey, we were hungry. We finally get to bed around midnight after a day that started in Southwest Ireland, included tours of multiple spots in Kilkenny, a 2-hour drive to the Dublin airport, etc., etc. In spite of our micro-accommodations, we are asleep the moment our heads hit the pillows.

Monday, July 8, 2019

The next morning, we are up early and meet Steph and the kids for breakfast at a mutually convenient place. Our first stop today is the British Museum. This is my favorite museum in the world. When the sun never set on the British Empire, they were busy assembling the most impressive collection of artifacts from all over the world. As the first public national museum in the world (established in 1753), with a collection of over 8 million works, the British Museum seeks to document the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present. At nearly 1 million sq ft, the museum itself is a massive building.

After entering the building, we make a beeline for my favorite item in the museum – the Rosetta Stone. Yes, the Rosetta Stone, and it is the first item you see when you enter the Ancient Egypt section of the museum. The Rosetta Stone was discovered in 1799 in the port city of Rosetta (now called Rashid) in north-east Egypt by Napoleon’s army. Two years later, the British conquered the French at Alexandria and, as part of the treaty of surrender, turned over the stone to the British.

The stone is inscribed with three versions of a decree issued at Memphis, Egypt in 196 BC by King Ptolemy V. The top and middle texts are in Ancient Egyptian using hieroglyphic and demotic scripts, while the bottom is in Ancient Greek. The decree has only minor differences among the three versions, so the Rosetta Stone became key to deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphs, thereby opening a window into ancient Egyptian history. It is one of the most remarkable documents anywhere.

The Rosetta Stone
After examining the Stone, I challenged my three grandchildren to find the oldest item in the museum. While the actual oldest item, the Olduvai stone chopping tool, dates back nearly 2 million years ago, the oldest item in the Egyptian collection is the Mummy of Ginger dating to 3400 BC – over 5 thousand years ago! Jayden, a 7th grader, had recently studied Ancient Egypt in school, so to be able to actually see real sphinx, statues, mummies, etc. from Egypt was pretty exciting.

Next we went to the Ancient Greece collection to visit the Parthenon collection. Liz and I had visited the Parthenon in Athens on June 16th and I had previously written about that experience and the dispute between the Greeks and the British Museum over the Elgin (Parthenon) Marbles. In brief, in 1801, Lord Elgin of Scotland had been given permission from the Turks, who were ruling Greece at that time, to remove artifacts from the Acropolis. Elgin removed over half of what remained of the Parthenon, at that time, and they are now beautifully displayed in the British Museum. From the point of view of the British Museum, these artifacts were taken with the approval of the ruling government at that time (the Turks) and from the Greek government, they were stolen and they want them back. There has been no compromise on either side and it wouldn’t appear this will change any time soon.

Elgin Marbles

Elgin Marbles
Following the passing of my first wife, Wendy, due to cancer in March 2011, I spent the summer in London where my company, Bentley, was opening a major new office. While I was there, for three days in August, there were riots and looting which began in the London suburb of Tottenham and then spread throughout London and other parts of England. The initial cause for the riots seemed to be the shooting of police suspect, Mark Duggan, but that didn’t adequately define the scale and ferocity of the riots. Others suggested it was recent government cuts that sparked the anger and there were lots of other theories. I recall one journalist writing at the time, “if you want to understand how so many young people could participate in freely participating in the looting of thousands of stores, go visit the British Museum, we have been doing this for centuries!”

With that said, no visit to London is complete without a visit to the British Museum. It is spectacular even if a bit controversial.

After the museum, we walked to St.Paul’s Cathedral for a visit of this magnificent church designed by Sir Christopher Wren. The Great Fire of London occurred in 1666 gutting the medieval City of London inside the old Roman city wall destroying over 13,000 houses and the original St. Paul’s Cathedral. Wren was commissioned to rebuild St Paul’s and it is a masterpiece.

St Paul's Cathedral
 We next walked across the Millennium Bridge which is a beautiful pedestrian bridge crossing the River Thames and connecting the established city of London with the up-and-coming south side. (Note: the bridge was designed by Foster and Partners using Bentley software.) When I spent three months living in London in 2011, my apartment was next to Tate Modern Museum and I would cross the bridge every morning on my way to work passing by the museum and heading north with a spectacular view of St Paul’s where the bridge terminates. It was a walk I never tired of.

View of St Paul's from Millennium Bridge
We then walked along the Thames, heading east, passing by Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre and the replica of Sir Francis Drake’s ship, the Golden Hinde, in which he circumnavigated the world in the late 16th century, and eventually reaching Borough Market, a large outdoor farmers market, where we had lunch. After lunch, we walked back over the Thames on London Bridge (yes, that London Bridge and, no, it was not falling down). From here, we caught the tube at Cannon Street and headed back to St James’s Park where we walked the park and fed the parrots.

It had been a long, exhausting day, covering nearly 10 miles of walking. I was impressed that the grandkids held up so well. They were chasing parrots while I was dozing on the grass of St. James’s Park. What a great day.



Today, we would be heading to Hever Castle, the ancestral home of Anne Boleyn. In addition to Stephanie and the three grandkids, we were also joined by Travis, who was taking the morning off from his preparation for Thursday’s grand opening of the Microsoft Store. We met at London Bridge Station where we caught a train to Hever, about a 1-hour ride. From Hever Station, we than walked 30 minutes to the castle through the very remote, bucolic countryside.

Originally constructed in the late 13th century, Hever Castle was owned by the Boleyn family from 1462 to 1539 and is where Anne, who would become King Henry VIII’s 2nd wife, spent her childhood. Over the centuries, the castle changed hands many times until it was purchased by the American millionaire William Waldorf Astor in 1903.

Hever Castle
Today, Hever Castle is a tourist attraction, drawing on its links to Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII, its mazes, gardens and lake, which are all spectacular. We had expected to spend a couple of hours there, but the kids were having such a great time in the yew maze, the water maze, and the playground, that we stayed almost all day catching the 4pm train back into London.

Stephanie, Travis, Addison, Riley & Jayden at Hever Castle
That evening, Liz and I had dinner with Tarun and Sheela Inuganti. Tarun is a partner at Spencer Stuart where Liz had previously worked and they have known each other for many years. Tarun had relocated from LA to London on a two-year assignment and we had met once before for dinner when Liz and I were in London in December 2017. Sheela had recently completed the Camino with some friends arriving in Santiago de Compostela one day before we did narrowly missing eachother. We had a lovely time discussing the Camino trip, Tarun’s plans after the London assignment comes to a close, and just generally catching up on life. They are a lovely couple and we hope to see much more of them on the future.

King Henry VIII and His Six Wives

The tour of Hever Castle, as well as several other visits in England and Scotland, highlights the impact that Henry VII had on England and the world. He is perhaps best known for his six wives – 2 of them divorced, 2 of them beheaded and 2 of them died.

The first of his wives, Catherine of Aragon, daughter of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella (yes, the same folks who commissioned Christopher Columbus) was first betrothed at the age of only three to Henry’s older brother, Arthur, who she married when they both turned 16. Sadly, Arthur died five months later, and she then married Henry eight years later. Henry had become King of England two years before (1509) at the age of 17. The marriage of Catherine, daughter to the King and Queen of Spain and Henry, King of England, served to consolidate the power of Spain and England, both of whom were firmly part of the Catholic Church.

Now, young Henry was a bit of a philanderer, and shortly after his marriage to Catherine, he began an affair with one of Catherine’s lady-in-waiting, Mary Boleyn. And, can you even believe it, Mary is the older sister of Anne, who when Henry met her, he simply had to have her for his wife. But first, there was this unfortunate circumstance of already being married to Catherine, not to mention he was having an affair with Anne’s sister (and rumored to have fathered two children with Mary).

So what do to? You are married to the daughter of the King and Queen of Spain, you are in love with the younger sister of the lady-in-waiting to your wife and which younger sister you have been conducting and affair for a long time, you are the King of England with a sworn obedience to the Pope and the Catholic Church who frowns on this behavior and refuses to grant you an annulment (divorces are illegal). Indeed, what a pickle.

Enter, the shrewd and devious mind of Oliver Cromwell, who suggests that you reject the Pope and the Catholic Church, you establish a new church – the Church of England, and you put yourself in charge of this new church because, after all, you are the king.

Now all of this didn’t happen quickly. Henry and Catherine were married for 24 years, but she had failed to produce a male heir during all of this time, so what is a king to do, but graze elsewhere. And so, at the age of 41, Henry is married to Anne Boleyn after decrees are signed annulling his marriage to Catherine.

As it turns out, Anne was a strong-willed woman who didn’t care much for the delicate life as the wife of a King. Eventually, this began to grate on Henry, but even more disturbing was the fact that she had failed to produce a male heir, just as Catherine before her. With that said, Catherine’s daughter, Mary, and Anne’s daughter, Elizabeth, each turned out to become rulers of England. Mary spent much of her reign trying to reverse Henry’s formation of the Church of England and return England to the Catholic faith. Elizabeth, the Virgin Queen, succeeded her and re-established the Church of England, died without heir and thus ended the rule of the House of Tudor after 118 years.

After only three short years of marriage, Henry was tired of Anne having taking notice of one her ladies-in-waiting, the beautiful Jane Seymour. And, so, a case was fabricated against five men, including Anne’s brother George, and Anne herself, of having participated in treasonous adultery and incest. The six were found guilty, sentenced to death and, summarily, beheaded in spite of little to no evidence.

One day after Anne’s execution, Henry was engaged to Jane and married ten days later. She was 28 and he was 45 years old. Within a year, Jane succeeded where the two previous wives had failed and produced a male heir, Edward, but the birth was difficult and Jane died shortly after. And Edward, at the age of nine, succeeded his father as King of England. However, at the young age of only 15, he became terminally ill, and named as his successor his first cousin, Lady Jane Grey, who became Queen upon Edward’s death. Within a few days of becoming Queen, she was dethroned by the aforementioned Mary (King Henry’s daughter by Catherine), found guilty of treason and beheaded.

After three years without a wife, it was time for Henry to get married again. Without the benefit of online dating services, Henry was shown a portrait of the young Anne of Cleaves, 24-years his junior. Believing her to be a beauty, he agreed to the marriage and in 1540 they were married. As it turns out, she was not all that beautiful and the King quickly grew wearisome of her and within only a matter of months, the marriage was declared unconsummated, she was given a generous settlement and was, thereafter, referred to as the King’s Beloved Sister. In retrospect, she was the most fortunate of Henry’s six wives, outliving them all and financially secure.

In less than three weeks, Henry was married to his fifth spouse, Catherine Howard, another of Anne Boleyn’s ladies-in-waiting. Catherine, at only 17 year’s old, was 31 years younger than Henry. That age difference proved to be fatal, as Catherine quickly had romantic eyes for others roaming the palace. Apparently, there were two such affairs and when Henry learned of them, he was not pleased. Within 16 months of their marriage, Catherine and the two consorts were beheaded.

And that brings us to Henry’s sixth and final wife and the third Catherine among the group, Catherine Parr, a wealthy widow and only 20 years younger than Henry. Apparently, at the age of 52, Henry had learned that a happy marriage wasn’t all about chasing the next young thing that wandered through the palace. Catherine was practical and pragmatic and helped to reconcile Henry with his two daughters, Mary and Elizabeth, which paved the way for their being placed back in line for succession to the throne. It was Henry who died four years after their marriage. Catherine was married again, this time to Thomas Seymour, the brother of Jane Seymour, Henry’s third wife (I know, crazy). Sadly, Catherine died shortly thereafter as a result of complications in childbirth. She was only 36.


So that’s it. Six wives. Three named Catherine, two named Anne and one named Jane. Two divorces or annulments, two beheaded and two died from complications with childbirth. As for Henry, he died at the age of 55, likely from complications due to obesity (his waist measured 54”) and he was buried in Windsor Castle next to wife #3, Jane Seymour.

English Reformation

Beyond the soap opera that was Henry and his wives, Henry was also a central figure in the English Reformation marking England’s break with the Roman Catholic Church. Prior to Henry, there was growing dissatisfaction in Europe with the Roman Catholic stranglehold on religious thought and political power. A reform movement was brewing based upon a couple of key religious differences.

The Reformation was a clash of two opposed approaches to salvation. The Catholic Church taught that good works was the key to salvation. Catholic worship was centered on the Mass, the church's offering of the sacrifice of Christ's body and blood. The Mass was also an offering of prayer by which the living could help souls in purgatory. Protestants taught that fallen humanity was helpless and under condemnation until given the grace of God through faith, not good works. They believed the Catholic emphasis on purgatory was an obstacle to true faith in God and the identification of the Mass with Christ's sacrifice a blasphemous perversion of the Eucharist. In place of the Mass, Protestant worship was centered on the Bible either read or presented in sermons.

Along comes Henry and his deep desire for a male heir and the need to have his marriage to Catherine of Aragon annulled, so that he could then marry Anne Boleyn. The Pope refused to grant the annulment thereby aligning the interests of Henry and the Reformists. Among Henry’s advisors, including Cromwell, were leaders of the Reform movement and they seized the opportunity. While Henry was delighted with the outcome to then marry Anne and pursue a male heir, he was somewhat conservative in his religious beliefs as compared to the movement leaders.

Nevertheless, the movement picked up momentum due to political reasons rather than religious theology. England’s treasury was in need of additional revenues. Eliminating the need to pay taxes to the Vatican was a good start, but the Catholic Church also owned an estimated 20% to 33% of all of the land in England. Confiscating this land and selling it to the upper class was a convenient way to bolster the treasury while co-opting the wealthy to the movement.

These actions did not go down easily and set neighbor against neighbor as the Catholic Church had been an integral part of community life for centuries. This led to rebellion that needed to be crushed and often this was done in the harshest of forms backed by new laws, trials and executions. Monarchs also waffled, some preferring to return to Catholicism, others with a strong defense of the Church of England while still others, like Henry, fell in the middle. Eventually, in the mid-17th century, there were the English Civil Wars that ended with James II, a Catholic sympathizer, being deposed and replaced with William and Mary as joint sovereigns and ushering in the English Bill of Rights which, among things, limited the powers of the monarch and established a clearer separation of church and state.

And while it is likely that the English Reformation and Protestant Movement would have progressed without Henry’s political ambitions, it certainly is the case that Henry accelerated the movement and the demise of the Catholic Church in England and elsewhere in Europe.

Wednesday, July 10th

Today was Harry Potter day for us. Several months before arriving in London, we had arranged tickets to see the play Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. The play is in two parts comprised of a matinee performance and an evening performance and, essentially, you must commit an entire day if you plan to see it. Well, we did and we would be going with Stephanie, Jayden, Addison and Riley, each of whom have read all or nearly all of the Harry Potter books. Liz and I, on the other hand, have read none of JK Rowling’s seven Harry Potter books. I started the first book many years ago, read several hundred pages and then had to put the book down. I never returned to it. It just wasn’t my thing. But the opportunity to see this play with my grandkids, who are actual Harry Potter enthusiasts, was too good to pass up.

The story for the play was co-written by Rowling and Jack Thorne, who then wrote the script for the play(s). Without giving anything away to you Potter loyalists, the play is set nineteen years after the conclusion of the final novel Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows, and focuses on Harry’s younger son, Albus, and his unlikely friend, Scorpius Malfor, the son of Harry’s nemesis, Draco Malfoy, as they are now enrolled at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. (Just writing a sentence like this brings back the memories of why I couldn’t finish reading book #1.)


No surprise the play has been an artistic and commercial success. At the 2017 Laurence Olivier Awards, the London production received a record-breaking eleven nominations and won an again record-breaking nine awards, including Best New Play, Best Actor, Best Actor in a Supporting Role, Best Actress in a Supporting Role and Best Director. At the 2018 Tony Awards, the Broadway production won six awards, including Best Play. And, of course, it has set records at the box office as the highest grossing play ever.

We met Stephanie and the kids in Green Park prior to the start of the matinee for a picnic lunch and then were off to the first play. After the matinee, we headed to Covent Gardens for a little browsing and dinner, then back to the theatre for Part Two. Travis was able to break away from work for the evening performance and met us at the theatre.

Here’s my review of the play. Go see it. It is magical. And to be able to experience this with my grandkids was extra special.

Thursday, July 11th

This day was dedicated to the grand opening of the Microsoft store in the heart of Oxford Circus, the world-famous intersection of Regent Street and Oxford Street, Europe’s busiest shopping street. Travis, who is the General Manager for Microsoft’s retail stores worldwide, along with his extended team, has been working on this store for a couple of years and this opening is a big deal for Microsoft and for him.

We were there for the opening at 10am and the place was mobbed. Travis gave us a personal tour of the space and the kids got lost in the gaming department.

Opening of the Micorsoft Store at Oxford Circle
Here’s how The Verge, a tech publication, described the opening-

“Microsoft has more than 80 retail stores worldwide, but none of them are quite like the company’s new London flagship store. It’s the best demonstration yet of CEO Satya Nadella’s reinvented Microsoft. Set across three floors, Microsoft has laid out everything it has to offer. That includes Surface devices on every floor, HoloLens headsets, a big Xbox gaming lounge, and even a real-life McLaren Senna sports car that’s hooked up to Forza.

Microsoft has spent more than two years developing the Oxford Circus store, and the ground floor serves as a welcoming party to Microsoft’s world. There are giant 4K video walls everywhere you look that are just as striking as those found in Microsoft’s other stores.

Tucked away in the corner is where you’ll find the McLaren Senna. The steering wheel and foot pedals are all connected to Forza Motorsport 7, and visitors will be able to jump in and race around the Silverstone track, just in time for the British Grand Prix this weekend.

The second floor is where things get even more interesting. There’s the regular support Answer Desk (Microsoft’s version of Apple’s Genius Bar) and areas to showcase Xbox hardware, laptops from Asus, HP, and Razer, and Surface accessories.

The real star of the second floor is Microsoft’s gaming area, though. It’s filled with 15 Xbox One stations, fitted out with Xbox-themed gaming chairs, the latest Turtle Beach headsets, and there’s even Acer’s absurd Predator Thronos gaming chair. If you’ve always wanted to sit in a chair that reclines and vibrates in sync with the games you’re playing on three 27-inch monitors, now is your chance.

Microsoft’s third and final floor of this store is where things start to get different. Instead of the usual retail space, it has been transformed into an enterprise floor, complete with meeting rooms and event spaces. Microsoft is using this floor to meet with its business customers to demonstrate new services and hardware like HoloLens 2 or Surface Hub 2. It’s less of a retail space and more of a sales pitch to big businesses that operate in London and across Europe.

The second and third floors really highlight Microsoft’s focus with this new store. At its heart, it’s a retail space, but it’s also a way for the company to let people see this latest hardware and software in action.”

As we left the store, I couldn’t help but be just a tab bit proud of Travis (OK, maybe super proud is more accurate).

Friday, July 12th

For our final day in London, we would be heading out of town to visit Stonehenge and Windsor Castle. I had done this tour years before and it was totally worthwhile. Liz and I met Stephanie and the kids at the tour company’s offices and boarded a bus that would transport us to the two venues and have us back in London by 6pm.

Stonehenge

The bus ride from London to Stonehenge is approximately 2 hours. From the parking lot you can either walk the 1+ mile to the site or take the shuttle. We take the shuttle.

Although I have been there before, the site of Stonehenge takes your breath away. You can’t help feeling that you are standing on holy ground and witnessing something miraculous. While everyone has seen pictures of this iconic landmark, I will briefly describe it here.

Stonehenge
Stonehenge is a prehistoric monument consisting of a ring of standing stones, with each standing stone around 13 feet high, seven feet wide and weighing around 25 tons. The stones are set within earthworks in the middle of the most dense complex of Neolithic and Bronze Age monuments in England, including several hundred burial mounds.

Archaeologists believe it was constructed from 3000 BC to 2000 BC. The surrounding circular earth bank and ditch, the earliest phase of the monument, have been dated to about 3100 BC. Radiocarbon dating suggests that the first stones were erected between 2400 and 2200 BC.

One of the most famous landmarks in England, Stonehenge is regarded as a British cultural icon. The site and its surroundings were added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites in 1986.

Stonehenge was produced by a culture that left no written records. Many aspects of Stonehenge, such as how it was built and which purposes it was used for, remain a mystery. There is little or no direct evidence revealing the construction techniques used by the Stonehenge builders. How the stones could be transported, some as far as 200 miles, by a prehistoric people without the aid of the wheel or a pulley system is not known. The most common theory is that they created a track of logs which the large stones were rolled along with a team of 100 people pushing and pulling the stones. Another theory involves the use of a type of sleigh running on a track greased with animal fat.

Jayden, Riley, Stephanie & Addision
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the site and visitor’s center and highly recommend it on your next trip to the UK.

Windsor Castle

The bus ride from Stonehenge to Windsor Castle takes about 1.5 hours. The town of Windsor is adorable and the castle, with its accompanying grounds, is spectacular.

The castle, one of many royal residences, is impressive and we just happen to arrive on a day when the Queen was there which is signaled by the flying of the Queen’s flag above the castle.

Windsor Castle
The original castle was built in the 11th century after the Norman invasion of England by William the Conqueror. Since the time of Henry I (son of William the Conqueror), it has been used by the reigning monarch and is the longest-occupied palace in Europe. The castle's lavish State Apartments, which visitors are allowed to walk through, were described by the art historian Hugh Roberts as "a superb and unrivalled sequence of rooms widely regarded as the finest and most complete expression of later Georgian taste". Inside the castle walls is the 15th-century St George's Chapel, considered by the historian John Martin Robinson to be "one of the supreme achievements of English Perpendicular Gothic" design.

St George's Chapel at Windsor Castle
After our extensive tour, we walked the streets of Windsor, enjoyed a snack – ice cream for the kids and coffee for the adults – and then boarded the bus for the 1.5-hour ride back to London.

That night, our final in London, we were joined by Travis for dinner and enjoyed a lovely Indian meal. The Indian food in London is outstanding – one of the benefits of India once being part of the United Kingdom – and a treat for all who visit because British food, otherwise, is unremarkable.

And that completes our visit to London. Tomorrow, Liz and I will drive north for a week of travels in northeast England and Scotland.

Musings….

London - what’s not to like? One of the coolest cities on the globe. Lively. Intoxicating. Crowded. And it was extra crowded given we visited in mid-July - us and the one million other tourists. And, yes, we did all the touristy things (even though Malcolm and I had done most of them before). I think his grandkids enjoyed the parrots in the park as much as anything else. Fun to be with them and get to experience it through their eyes. We continued to be blessed (there is that Irish thing again) with glorious weather. Warm, sunny, but not too hot to walk the city.

And we got to visit with Tarun & Sheela - so fun to catch up on their lives and hear what’s happening next. Totally impressed with Sheela completing the Camino walk!

We have now completed 1/3 of our trip, and yet we still have 5 months to go (5 more months!). As you can imagine, sometimes it feels like we just got started and other times that we’ve been living out of a suitcase for years. Most days we don’t even think about the process - we just enjoy our fantastic adventure. But, I have to admit, there are other days (you’ll hear more about them so stay tuned) that I want to cry uncle;). Then I remember all the great parts of the adventure still in front of us…smile.

Some curiosities I’ve begun to take note of:
90% of the showers in Europe leak - what’s with that?
8 countries so far and not one has half & half for my coffee - someone needs to import the stuff or just come here and buy a few cows (I’m convinced you could make a fortune, they just don’t know what they’re missing)
No top sheets - they just throw a heavy comforter on the bed - and I know that all the hip Americans who have visited Europe adopted that - we’re just not that cool, so I miss a top sheet.
All tourist places now have you exit through the “shops” - even all the churches have adopted the Duty Free strategy and have you walk by hundreds of rosary beads and bibles on your way out (just in case you converted, I guess).
Spending a week in London you see all the "movers and shakers" bustling about, dressed in their work clothes, cramming into the Tube, gathering for drinks after work, etc., and I realized that I am so glad that’s not me anymore;)

Thanks again for following us - till next time - ciao!

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